7.3L Power Stroke Main Stud Installation Guide (1993–2002 Ford) — CP118

This guide covers installation of the XOTIC PERFORMANCE™ CP118 main stud kit for the 1993–2002 7.3L Ford Power Stroke diesel. Prefer a printable copy? Download the PDF manual.

Why a 7.3L Power Stroke needs main studs

The 7.3L is the long-life engine of the Power Stroke family, and that's exactly the problem: a lot of them are 25 to 30 years old, have half a million miles on them, and are now making two or three times the power Navistar signed off on. Main cap bolts are what keep the crankshaft's bearing bores round and located under that load. Turn the boost up, add a bigger turbo and more fuel, and cylinder pressure pushes down through the rod and into the main cap on every power stroke — repeatedly, thousands of times a minute.

Studs handle that better than bolts for a structural reason. A bolt is torqued into the block, so it twists and stretches at the same time; a stud is threaded in finger-tight and stays still while the nut is torqued against it, so the stud is loaded in pure tension. That gives you more consistent, more accurate preload — the tensile force in the fastener that becomes clamp force in the joint — and preload is what stops cap walk and bearing bore distortion. XOTIC PERFORMANCE™ main studs are manufactured from our premium XOTIC 7200 steel alloy and backed by a lifetime warranty.

What's in the CP118 kit

• 20 × main studs (XOTIC 7200 alloy)
• 21 × hardened parallel washers
• 21 × nuts
• 2 × sockets
• 1 × allen wrench
• 1 × fastener assembly lubricant

Before you start: verify first

Confirm that part number CP118 is compatible with your application before installing any components. Inspect all package contents for damage and clean as necessary to ensure accurate installation. Report any obvious defects or shipping damage to us before proceeding.

How to install main studs on a 7.3L Power Stroke

1. Chase the block threads. Clean the threads in the block with a thread chaser prior to installing the studs, to ensure accurate fitment and precise torque readings. The correct tool for this block is the M12 x 1.75 chaser (CS304), available separately.
2. Thread the studs in by hand. Screw the main studs in as tight as can be made by hand — no tool necessary, and do not apply torque. Loctite may be used for permanent stud installation, but the fasteners must be fully torqued before the Loctite sets.
3. Check stud height with a straightedge. Use a straightedge ruler to measure the distance from the mating surface (deck or main cap) to the top of each installed stud. Ensure all studs of the same length group sit level with each other (within 1 mm / 0.040”). Uneven height may indicate debris or incorrect thread engagement. Properly installed studs will bottom out smoothly and show uniform height across all positions. If a stud appears higher or lower than the others, remove it, re-clean the hole, and reinstall by hand. Do not use tools to force studs deeper. Incorrect stud seating can cause off-angle stress, uneven preload, or stud fracture during engine operation.
4. Install the main caps. Set the caps in place and ensure appropriate alignment before any load goes on them.
5. Lubricate. Using the fastener assembly lubricant included in the package, lubricate the threads of the main studs and the nuts.
6. Hand-tighten the nuts. Thread the nuts onto the studs as tight as can be made by hand.
7. Note the oil pickup spacer. Position a 3/4" washer below the oil pickup mount for proper spacing.
8. Torque in three equal steps. Working in the sequence shown in the manual's torque sequence diagram, tighten the nuts in the three stages below — never straight to final value.
9. Check the bores. With the studs torqued, check the main bores for size and roundness. If an align hone is needed, do it with the same fasteners and lubricant that will be used during final assembly, at the specified torque.

7.3L Power Stroke main stud torque specs

M12 main studs

M10 nuts

Frequently asked questions

What are the main stud torque specs for a 1993–2002 7.3L Power Stroke?

The M12 main studs go to 42, then 84, then 125 ft-lbs in three equal steps, following the sequence in the manual. The M10 nuts go to 15, then 30, then 45 ft-lbs.

Do I need to align hone after installing main studs?

Check first. Once the studs are torqued, measure the main bores for size and roundness. Studs load the caps differently than the factory bolts did, so a bore that was round with bolts may not be. If it needs honing, do it with the same studs, nuts, and assembly lubricant you'll use for final assembly, torqued to spec.

What thread chaser does the 7.3L block take?

The M12 x 1.75 chaser (CS304). Chasing — not tapping — is the right operation here: a chaser cleans existing threads without cutting new material.

Should the studs be torqued into the block?

No. Thread them in finger-tight only. The whole advantage of a stud is that it isn't twisted while it's stretched — torquing the stud into the block gives away that advantage and skews your preload.

While you're in there

If the 7.3L is apart far enough for main studs, the deck is worth the same treatment. See our 7.3L Power Stroke head stud guide (CP879).

Need help?

For technical support, email support@xotic-performance.com. All XOTIC PERFORMANCE™ fasteners are covered by our limited lifetime warranty. Finished your install? Tag #XOTICPERFORMANCE on Instagram for a chance to be featured.

© 2026 XOTIC PERFORMANCE™. This installation guide is an original copyrighted work of XOTIC PERFORMANCE™. Reproduction, distribution, or use of this content in whole or in part without written permission is prohibited. Doc ref: 2025.05.20 (web edition 2026.08).